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Tacoma Rough Country 2″ Leveling Kit (2005-2019 6 Lug) Review & Install

Hey, guys. Joe from ExtremeTerrain, and today, I’m gonna
be reviewing and showing you how to install the Rough Country 2-inch leveling kit, fitting
all ’05 and newer six-lug Toyota Tacomas. Now, something like this is going to be perfect
for this Tacoma owner who’s looking to get some better overall off-road performance out
of their truck with a budget-friendly system that’s going to allow you some better ground
clearance and allow you to fit some larger tires. These spacers are manufactured out of an aircraft
grade billet aluminum. They feature their own pressed in studs and come
with all the hardware you need to get them installed on your Tacoma. Now, from the factory, all Tacomas and trucks
for that matter come with a little bit of rake, meaning the front sits a little bit
lower than the rear. That’s the counterbalance, any weight added
in the rear if you have something heavy in the bed or if you’re towing something, the
truck would then level out. But if you’re not doing either of those things
too often, it’s more of a looks thing, and something like this is going to correct that
rake and allow your truck to sit level even without anything in the bed. Now, something like this is just gonna level
out the truck with no weight in it. If you’re looking for a lift as well, there’s
some kits similar to this that feature a lift block for the rear. Usually a 3-inch front, 1-inch rear will get
you where you need to be if you’re looking for that lift as well as a level. So, as far as tire sizing goes, we’re looking
at a maximum of a 33. Stock, this truck has 30s on it. Today, we’re gonna show you what some 33s
look like. As you guys can see, they rub a little bit
on that front lip, a little bit on the mudguard, and they actually hit the control arm as well. So, 32s are gonna be your upper limit. This kit is also going to give you a little
bit of ground clearance. Now, it is gonna be minor, but it is going
to approve your approach angle just a little bit. Something like this isn’t a full suspension
lift ,so don’t expect to be doing the toughest trails out there, but when you’re rock crawling,
it is something to think about and definitely an improvement over stock. Rough Country offers this kit with a couple
of different finishes as well. You can get it in the raw billet aluminum
finish like we’re working with today, and for the same price, they also offer a red
anodized finish. Now, pricing for these is going to come in
at around the $60 mark, and that is a good return on investment for what you get here. A lot of benefits with this product. You get the added ground clearance, you get
the allowance to run some larger tires and better overall off-road performance. A lot of gains, especially when comparing
this to a full suspension lift kit, which is going to cost you significantly more money. Also included in that price is going to be
a limited lifetime warranty from Rough Country. Now, before we move on to the install, I did
just wanna make a quick note that this kit is going to be specific for the six-lug Tacoma. So, if you have a five-lug truck, you will
need to shop for those five-lug specific body spacer lift kits. With that being said, install is going to
be pretty difficult. We’re going to be seriously digging into the
front suspension components on our Tacoma. I’m gonna give it a harder two out of three
wrenches on our difficulty meter but should only take you four hours with some basic hand
tools if you plan on working on a lift like we are. If you’re working on the ground, just budget
a little bit longer. So, with that being said, let me show you
how to get this installed on your Tacoma. Tools required for this install are going
to be an impact, hammer, pry bar, 1/2-inch drive U-joint, 12-millimeter socket, 14-millimeter
socket, 21-millimeter socket, 19-millimeter socket, 17-millimeter socket, 17-millimeter
ratcheting wrench, 15-millimeter ratcheting wrench, 14-millimeter ratcheting wrench, 19-millimeter
open-ended wrench, some blue Loctite, channel locks, and needle nose pliers. Tools not pictured in this shot are going
to be a floor jack. So, first things first for our install, we’re
going to take care of some of our brake line brackets. Brake lines and the ABS lines are things you
wanna keep a close eye on not to damage. So, we’re going to use a 12-millimeter socket
and some needle nose pliers to get those loosened up. And I’m just gonna thread that back into the
knuckle for safekeeping. We’re gonna do the same thing for this bracket
right here. Next, we’re going to take the needle nose
pliers and pry on this bracket right here. That should release our ABS line from the
upper control arm. All right. And there is one more right behind our brake
rotor right about here. I’m gonna use the needle nose pliers to get
that one as well. Since we have a needle nose in hand, we’re
just gonna remove this cotter pin on our tie rod, and then we’ll start disassembling right
there as well. Next, we’re gonna use a 19-millimeter socket
to remove this castle nut. Now, right after this, we’re going to loosen
up this ball joint from this collar here. It’s got a taper that holds it in place. So, in order to protect our threads, I’m just
gonna leave that castle nut on there, but loose. So, if you need a little bit more wind up
room, you could cock your wheel in one direction. That’ll kind of turn the ball joint out and
allow you to wind up beyond the fender well here. And just like that, it should pop loose. Then we’re gonna unthread that castle nut
with our fingers, and we can move on to the sway bar, which is a 17-millimeter nut. So, for our next step, we’re gonna start on
this upper ball joint right here. We’re gonna use the needle nose pliers to
get that cotter pin out of the way, then we’re gonna loosen that nut with a 19-millimeter
socket. We’re gonna do the same exact thing we did
with the tie rod. Just leave that threaded on a little bit. That’s gonna catch our upper control arm. It’s also going to protect the threads while
we hit that tapered collar with the hammer. Now, at this point, our upper control arm
is under some tension, so we’re gonna pull down on that, unthread that castle nut, and
slide out our ball joint. Next, we’re going to loosen up the 14-millimeter
nuts on top of the strut assembly. Now, once those are off, you do wanna keep
a close eye on your brake lines and axle boots. Make sure they’re not under any stress. If they do, just wrap a quick bungee cord
around this knuckle here and tie it up somewhere And this right here is where a ratcheting
wrench comes in their great help. Next, we’re gonna hit the lower side of the
strut assembly. That’s gonna be a 19-millimeter socket again
and 19-millimeter wrench. Now, once I get to this point, I usually like
to completely stop what I’m doing on this side and get the other side up. Reason being is once you have that all blown
apart, it allows you to do this with the sway bar. Without doing the other side, it would probably
stop around there. And, obviously, having that up and out of
the way makes it extremely easy to do what I’m about to do next, which is take out our
strut assembly. With that in our hands, we can now move to
the table and get our spacer plate installed. So, for the next step and to install this
spacer, we’re going to need those 14-millimeter nuts that we just took off the top of the
strut assembly. We’re gonna slide this on, put some blue Loctite
on it, and then tighten down those nuts. And when you install the spacer, it only goes
on one way. So, if it doesn’t line up, just keep rotating
until you find the correct orientation. Now, at this point, I’m gonna put some blue
Loctite on there. Do the same thing for the other side. Then we can move back to the truck and start
buttoning things up. Next, we’re going to use the included nyloc
nuts in the kit to get our upper strut assembly seated. Before we tighten those down, we’re gonna
get a bolt in the bottom as well. And, again, this is a 19-millimeter socket
and 19-millimeter wrench. Next, we’re gonna move back to the top and
tighten down these nuts. The sizing does change from the factory. They’re now 15-millimeters. Now, at this point our strut assembly is in. And before you do anything, you wanna make
sure you have your sway bar right where it needs to be sitting. That’s gonna prevent it from getting caught
up on the rest of the suspension components when we start tightening things down. But with that being said, we can now move
on to the upper ball joint right here, and as you guys can see, I have a jack supporting
our lower control arm. I’m kind of using the weight of the truck
to compress our spring a little bit and get that ball joint easier to sit in on our knuckle. But you can make sure that lines up. Push this in. I’m just gonna support it with my knees and
then use a small pry bar to pry down on the upper control arm. Then we can tighten that back down with our
19-millimeter socket. Next, I’m just gonna run our cotter pin through
to secure it. Next, we’re just gonna button up the rest
of our suspension components starting with the tie rod. And, again, that gets tightened down with
a 19-millimeter socket And then we’re gonna secure it with the cotter pin. Next is gonna be the sway bar that gets secured
with the original 17-millimeter nut. Now all that’s left for us to do is get those
ABS and brake line brackets sorted. I’m gonna start with this little bracket right
behind our rotor here, then we can get the other side caught up to the same spot, and
that’ll be the install. And that is going to do it for our install. Now, there are a couple more things. It’s a great idea and almost necessary to
get into alignment after something like this and then drive a couple of hundred miles and
make sure everything is still nice and torqued down. And that is going to do it for my review and
install of the Rough Country 2-inch leveling kit, fitting all ’05 and newer six-lug Tacomas. Thank you for watching. I’m Joe. For more videos like this and all things Tacoma,
please subscribe to ExtremeTerrain.

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