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Jeep Wrangler JL Rough Country 2.5 in. Spacer Suspension Lift Kit w/ N3 Shocks Review & Install

Jeep Wrangler JL Rough Country 2.5 in. Spacer Suspension Lift Kit w/ N3 Shocks Review & Install


Hey, guys. Today I’m here with the Rough Country 2.5-inch
spacer suspension lift kit with premium N3 shocks, fitting all 2018 and newer JL Wranglers. So, spacer lift kit is a very easy way to
gain some extra height on your Wrangler to create a more aggressive stance and gain a
little bit of performance at a very affordable price point. So, this option by Rough Country is going
to do exactly that. It’s going to create a lot of room inside
that wheel well for larger wheels and tires and better articulation off road. It’s also gonna do a really good job at leveling
out that rate that comes in the hood from the factory, creating a more aggressive stance
on your Wrangler. And this is also going to do a really good
job at creating some better ride quality as well as some better performance because this
does include those premium shocks. Now, this is going to be a perfect kit for
somebody who’s not looking to get too involved in their suspension, considering this is a
pretty bare-bones lift kit. Now, this is going to include the shocks as
well as the spacers. You’re going to get four sway bar end links
with this, and also a couple of accommodating features for that added height. So, this is perfect for somebody who’s looking
for a starter kit that they’re willing to build off of in the future or even keep this
as is. Now, as far as tire size goes, you are going
to be opening up that room inside the wheel well so you will be able to fit up to a 35-inch
tire. And I would stick with either a 35 or anything
below that. So, as far as 33s go, you will be able to
obviously fit that underneath the fender. It may look a little bit small, but it’s still
going to fill up that wheel well pretty nicely, giving you more room than a 35 for some better
articulation and up travel. So, as far as 37s go, you will be able to
bolt those up. However, you’re not going to have a lot of
room to work with. So, the fender two-tire area is going to be
a little bit tight. And if you do hit a bump you will make tire
defender contact, considering that this kit’s bump stop extensions are not made for that
extra diameter. So, if you are looking at upgrading your tire
size with this lift kit, I would recommend to pair it with up to a 35-inch tire. So, as far as price goes, this is going to
be really affordable, like I said before, at roughly $300. Now, this is going to have a little bit more
to it than the average spacer lift, making this a little bit more expensive than some
other spacer lift kits that you’ll see on the site. However, those are usually going to be more
bare-bones lift kits or spacer lift kits that only come with spacers and they may come with
other accommodating features instead of all four sway bar end links like this one and
even those shocks. Now, other more expensive options are usually
going to come with more. That’s usually how it works. If you have more components, that is going
to bump up that price point. Now, my personal opinion, I think, this is
perfect for somebody who’s just looking to get a boost in height on their Wrangler, as
well as a couple of different benefits at a very affordable price, very easily considering
you’re not messing with a lot of those suspension components. Install is going to be a three out of three
wrenches on the difficulty meter. However, you will be able to get this done
in your driveway with some very basic hand tools. So, speaking of the install, let’s jump into
that now. Tools that were use for my install were impact
wrenches, electric and pneumatic, cut-off wheel, hand ratchets, a socket set ranging
from 8-millimeter up to 21-millimeter, a 6-millimeter Allen socket, a 5-inch and 3-inch extension,
a pair of channel locks, a flathead screwdriver, a trim removal tool, a pair of pliers, a pair
of snips, an 18-millimeter and 9/16-inch, 14-millimeter open-ended or box wrench, and
a 14-millimeter ratcheting wrench. So, the first step to this lift kit is to
get your deep up in the air. Now, we are going to be starting in the front. So, I have the deep up on the lift. However, if you are on the ground with a jack
and jack stands, you want to make sure to jack up the front and chock the rear wheels,
then you can go ahead and take off the front wheels and then support our axle. So, after we have all that done, what we need
to do next is take off our sway bar end links. I’m going to be using an 18-millimeter swivel
sock into my impact wrench as well as an 18-millimeter wrench. So, on the passenger side, there is going
to be a flag nut, so we don’t have to use the wrench. We just need our socket. We can go ahead and remove that bolt. And don’t forget to grab the flag nut. So, since we are replacing our sway bar end
links, we do need to fully remove them. I’m going to use a 6-millimeter Allen key
to keep the stud still and an 18-millimeter wrench to take off the nut. So, in order to get our axle to drop all the
weight to get our springs out, we will need to remove our track bar axle side bolt. I’m going to use a 21-millimeter socket and
a 5-inch extension to clear our drag link. So, our next step is to disconnect our shocks. I’m going to start at our bottom bolt here
using an 18-millimeter swivel socket and an 18-millimeter wrench. You may have to put a little bit of pressure
on the axle just to get that shock to even out. Now we can head up to the top bolt. So, our next step is to remove the top bolt
on our shock. Now, our inner fender liner is kind of in
the way, so what I’m going to do is actually grab a small pry bar and just kind of fold
this up and out of the way. So, I just want to pull that up. So, we can wiggle in our socket and now you’re
going to be using an 18-millimeter socket to do this. So, once the bolt is unthreaded, what we can
do is just wiggle it out. So, what we’re going to do next is just connect
our brake lines. We’re going to start with this bracket that’s
on our frame using a 10-millimeter socket. Once that bolt is out, we can unhook it from
the frame and move down to our controller and brake line bracket. So, on our controller, what we’re going to
do is take this off with a 15-millimeter socket. We can unhook this, move that behind the control
arm, and then move over to our spring perch bracket. So with a 10-millimeter socket and a quarter-inch
drive ratchet, we can remove that bolt on the side of our spring perch that’s holding
in that bracket. Once that bolt is removed, we can pull that
out from the spring perch. So, what we can do now is repeat that process
on the other side. So, our next step is to disconnect this wiring
harness on the passenger side to just make sure that it is preserved and we’re not stretching
it out. And then what we can do is take a trim removal
tool and remove these clips that are holding it in. All right. So, what we can do now is drop our axle. So, while I was in the axle, I did notice
that once we got to a pretty low point that our breather tube on our axle is kind of getting
a little taut. So, what I’m going to do is take the same
trim removal tool that I used on the other side and just pop up these clips and slide
it down. What we can do at this point is pop out our
springs. So, before we go ahead and install our new
Rough Country lift kit, I wanted to tell you guys a little bit more about it and what benefits
are you going to see on this new lift kit in comparison to your factory setup. Now, right off the bat, this is going to serve
as a good replacement for any maintenance but also be a big upgrade in performance. So, we’re going to see that 2.5 inches of
lift is out of the coil spacer. So, we are going to be keeping those factory
coils, however, we’re going to be adding a 2.5-inch spacer on top and that’s where you’re
going to be getting your height. Now, you are going to be getting a couple
of different components that are going to accommodate for that added height, including
sway bar end links, as well as bump stop extension. So, the sway bar end links are going to be
a little bit longer than factory. However, with these new ones you are getting
two standard bushings in comparison to your factory ones where you have one standard bushing
and you also have a stud at the other end. And the stud can wear out and break over time. And with this new Rough Country sway bar end
link you’re not going to really have the option to break this stud because you are getting
those two standard bushing, so it is going to preserve the life of your sway bar end
links. Now, the other accommodating factor to this
is the fact that you’re getting bump stop extensions. So, what that’s going to do is prevent any
tire defender contact when you do hit a bump. Now, the big thing about this lift kit and
the big upgrade that you’re going to see is with your shocks. Now, there are two big categories of shocks. You have a hydraulic shock and you also have
a gas charge shock. Now, a hydraulic shock is going to be very
fluid-like, it’s going to be very comfortable, it’s perfect for the daily driver, it’s perfect
for a factory setup. And that’s exactly what your factory shop
is going to be. Now, it is susceptible to shock fade over
time because it is perfect for that factory application and it’s not really made for performance. Now, moving over to this option by Rough Country
that is included in the kit, that is going to be able to handle that performance and
perform very well. So, this is going to be a gas-charged shock. It is going to be a little bit stiffer, so
you’re not going to get as a comfortable ride as you would with your factory ones. However, the stiffness is going to reduce
body roll, especially when you’re driving on the street, and it’s also going to reduce
shock fade a lot faster than your factory one. So, that is going to reduce that cavitation
over time and it’s also going to disperse heat a lot faster. So, the energy that your springs are creating,
that has to be dispersed in heat, and this is going to do it very efficiently and a lot
better than your factory shock would. Now, this is also going to be pretty durable. It has a chrome-hardened shaft and it’s also
got a 54-millimeter shock body, which is going to be a little bit bigger than your factory
setup. So, overall, you are going to see a big upgrade
in moving over to this Rough Country lift kit in comparison to your factory setup. So, enough about these two side by side. Let’s go ahead and build up our new one. So, what we’re going to do first is take out
our factory isolator so we can put our spacer in between the isolator and our spring part. So, I’m just going to take a flathead. I don’t even have to. This is just going to slide down. Sometimes they do stick, so taking a flathead
and kind of prying it from the spring perch or the jumps, too, helps a little bit. But then after that oscillator is off, what
we can do is grab our spacer, wiggle that on, and re-install our isolator. So, what we can do now is reinstall our spring,
making sure that we have our bump stop spacer inside of our spring. So, we can attach that once our spring is
on. So, I want to make sure that the pigtail is
sitting in the back here. I’ll put a little bit of pressure on the spring,
and then we can attach our bump stop extension. So, now to attach our bump stop extension,
what we’re going to do is take our long bolt that’s provided in the kit, put that through
the extension and then through the spring perch, and then take our flange nut and secure
that on the other side. After that’s started on, we can tighten that
down with a 14-millimeter socket and a 14-millimeter wrench. So, we can repeat that process on the other
side. What we can do is man up our shocks next. Now you want to make sure that the front shocks
have the metal sleeve that is even on both sides, and then we can go ahead and put that
into place. Take our factory bolt. So, you are gonna have to pull your liner
forward if you don’t want to pull it up and crinkle the liner. Then you will be able to put the bolt in and
thread it down, then we can push it back a little bit so we can get a socket in there
and tighten that up. So, once we have that bolt threaded in, what
we can do is take an 18-millimeter socket. And I’m going to use a hand ratchet for this
just because there’s not a lot of room to fit the impact. And we can torque this down later. So, I’m gonna use that 18-millimeter socket,
wiggle that in there, and just tighten that up. All right. So, then we’re going to head down to the bottom
after we’re finished with the top. So, before we actually secure down the bottom
of our shock here, what I want to do is make sure that this brake line bracket is resecured,
considering that this is going to be behind our shock body. So, you want to make sure that that tab is
through the back of the spring perch. We can slide that in there, grab our factory
bolt, line that up, and then we can tighten it down with the same 10-millimeter socket
that we use before. All right. So, what we can do next is actually raise
our axle on this side so we can line it up to our shock because this is fully extended
right now. So just twist your pull jack or raise your
floor jack. Now, you want to be careful if you are on
a lift, even if you are on jack and jack stands. When you’re raising the axle, it can push
up on the body of the Jeep and lift it off of where it’s sitting on your lift mount points. So, you just want to be mindful where that
is. So, once that’s lined up, we can grab our
factory bolts, put that back in place. Thread on the nut on the other side, and then
tighten that up with an 18-millimeter socket and wrench. And then we can move on to re-attaching our
brake lines on this side, and we can do the same thing on the other side. So, our next step is to attach the frame and
the controller brake line bracket. However, we can’t install those at the same
time because we are having an issue with the length of our brake line. So, what I’m going to do is take off this
middle bracket so we can have a little bit of slack in our brake line when our axle is
at full drew. So, what I’m going to do is reattach this
bracket and make a notch in the brake line bracket so we can pry it off and just totally
get rid of this and then we can resecure at the top. So, what we’re going to do first is just secure
this back to the control arm, making sure that that top bracket is not secured to the
frame. And this is just going to give us a solid
point so we can work on this without it moving around. Then we’re going to grab our ABS line and
pop that out of place just so we are not hitting this when we make a notch in our bracket there. So, I’m actually going to take it out of that
top bracket too. Let’s get this out of the way for the time
being. Definitely don’t want to damage that. Let’s hook it over there. So, what we can do next is kind of orient
this in the way that we need to. I’m going to grab a pair of pliers or chain
locks. Just kind of bend this up. So, what I’m going to do now after I bent
it up so we can access it, I’m going to make a small notch in the top here that’s going
to break down the structural integrity of the bracket so I can peel it off a little
bit easier, because this is actually pretty hard to peel off just by itself. So, I’m going to grab a cut-off wheel, my
safety glasses, and just make a small notch. Now, if you are going to be doing this, be
very careful of this soft line here. You definitely don’t want to tear it. And if you so happened to tear it, you will
need to replace it. So, I’m just going to take the cut-off wheel. We’re going to make a small notch in the top. Great. So, that should be good enough. Sort of heated up the bracket or heated up
the metal. Then we can take a pair of pliers. Now, what you want to try to do is hook the
bottom of the pliers underneath this lip. So, once you have that open enough what we
can do, kind of wiggle that brake line out. You have to open it up a little bit more. You definitely don’t want to compromise that
brake line. All right. There we go. Then we can unthread this bracket, throw them
in trash. So, we can reattach our frame bracket. Hook that in the frame, secure with our factory
bolt and that’s going to leave a lot of slack down here. Perfect. If you’re ever taking your Jeep off road and
your axle goes to full droop, your brake line is going to be a okay. And we can tighten that up with a 10-millimeter
socket and then do the same thing on the other side. So our next step is to install our sway bar
end link. Now, you may have to raise the axle a little
bit to get them to line up, but we’re going to take our new provided bolt that Rough Country
has in the kit. This is going to replace the stud that we
had on our factory’s sway bar end links. You also are going to have a flat washer and
a flange nut that we’re going to put on the other side. And we can secure the top and then we can
secure the bottom with our factory bolt. Now, we can tighten down our bottom bolt with
that 18-millimeter wrench and socket that we use before to take it out. Then we can tighten up the top with a 19-millimeter
socket and that 18-millimeter wrench. Then we can repeat that process on the other
side. Remember, for the passenger side sway bar
end links, you do have that flag nut. It’s gonna go inside that truck bar bracket. So, our last step that we have in the front
is to re-secure our track bar. However, we do need to do that on the ground
so we can line it up properly with our steering wheel. So, our next step is to move them back. So, now that we’re in the back, we’re going
to do the same thing that we did in the front and support our axle and then we can go over
to our shocks and take out that lower shock bolt. So, I’m going to use an 18-millimeter wrench
and socket to take out this lower bolt. So just like the front, you may have to put
a little bit of pressure on the axle to wiggle out that bolt, and then we can head up to
the top. So, in order to get access to our top shock
bolt, there is a trim piece that we have to remove. There’s going to be three screws that we have
to take out in order to take this trim piece off. So, I’m going to use an 8-millimeter socket
and remove those three screws. So, once those are taken out, we can just
slide this output. So, we can use our 18-millimeter swivel socket
to remove that top bolt. Then we can do the same thing on the other
side. So, our next step is to remove our sway bar
end links. So, we’re going to remove the bottom bolt
on either side first, and then we can head up to the top stud. Now, I’m going to use an 18-millimeter socket
and wrench to remove that lower bolt. So, next step, we can remove the top nut that’s
on our stud, that’s on our sway bar end link. Now, you’re going to need that same 6-millimeter
Allen socket as well as an 18-millimeter wrench. Go ahead and take that off. And then we’re going to keep that on the other
side. So, our next step is to disconnect our track
bar. So, I’m going to remove the axle side track
bar bolt with a 21-millimeter socket. Our next step is to remove our brake line
bracket from the frame. I’m going to use a 10-millimeter socket to
go ahead and remove that. I’m just going to unhook that from the frame. We can do the same thing on the other side. So, before we drop our axle down, we do want
to disconnect our axle vent tube. So, I’m just going to grab a pair of pliers
and wiggle that off the axle. All right. We can leave that there so we can connect
it later. And now we can lower down our axles and we
can take out our springs. And once the axle is low enough, what we can
do is pop it off that retainer on the bottom and take out our springs. So, our next step is to install our spacer. So, first, we’re going to take our washer
with the welded nut from the back and put that on top of our spring perch here. So, we can grab our spacer and our provided
bolt. Now I have a 19-millimeter shallow socket
as well as a small extension here so I can thread this into the top. So, once that’s inserted in what we can do
is tighten that up. So, I’m going to use that same 19-millimeter
socket. And we can do the same thing on the other
side. So, our next step is install our bump stop
spacer. Now, this is going to go right on this platform
here on your axle. We’re going to have provided bolts with flat
washers and then also flange nuts that we can take care of down to the back. Now, there’s going to be two bolts per bump
stop extension. One in the front and then one on the other
side in the rear. So, what we can do then is tighten them up
with a 14-millimeter ratcheting wrench up here. You could also use a socket if you can fit
it in the space, and then I’m going to use a 9/16-inch wrench to hold the flange nut
still. And same thing for the other one. Then we can repeat that on the other side. All right. So, what we can do next is install our spring,
making sure that we have our factory isolator on there. So, what we have to do next is cut off the
nipple on our isolator here with a pair of side cutters because we want to have the isolator
sip flush on our spacer. All right. Then we can do the same thing on the other
side and then raise up our axle to set our springs. So, what we can do now is raise up our axle
so we can set our springs. You want to keep an eye on them, make sure
that they’re centered on the spacer up there as well as the isolator. Right? And once the little pressure is put on the
axle, what we can do is we secure our brake lines. So, what we’re going to do is hook our brake
line back into the frame, resecure it down with the factory bolt and tighten that up
with a 10-millimeter socket. So, you can do the same thing on the other
side. So, our next step is to install our sway bar
end links. Now, you are going to receive the same hardware
that you did upfront to replace that stud. And we’re going to thread that on to the top. And then, again, we’re gonna reuse our factory
bolt for the bottom. So, we can tighten up that bottom bolt with
the same 18-millimeter socket and wrench that we used before. And then we can use our 19-millimeter socket
up top as well as that 18-millimeter wrench. And we’re gonna repeat that on the other side. So, our next step is to install our new shocks. Now, these are going to be the longer shocks
in the kit, so I would keep that in mind. And the shorter shocks are going to be upfront. So, we’re going to reinstall that factory
hardware. Once that’s threaded in, what we can do is
tighten that up with the same 18-millimeter socket, then move to our bottom bolt. So, you may have to tinker with the axle height
in order to get this lined up. We can reinstall our factory bolt. Now, we can tighten that up with the 18-millimeter
socket and wrench. Then we can do that on the other side. So, next, we’re gonna attach our plastic trim
piece. However, before you do that, I would recommend
to torque this to the spec. It should be 81-foot pounds. And then we can pop this back into place and
resecure it with those factory bolts or factory screws. Now we’re gonna tighten those up with an 8-millimeter
socket. Now, we can do the same thing on the other
side. So, our last step before we put our Jeep down
in the ground and resecure our track bars is just to resecure our axle vent tube. So, I am going to grab a pair of pliers, pull
this down, set it into place, and then release that clamp. Now we can put this on the ground. So, now that the Jeep is on the ground, what
we can do is reconnect our rear track bar with the factory bolt. So, you will need someone, if it’s not lining
up, to wiggle the back of the Jeep in order to get that to line up. Then we can take our flag nut, secure it on
the back. Right? And once that flag nut is attached, we can
tighten it down with a 21-millimeter socket. So, for the front track bar, you’re going
to want somebody in the driver’s seat turning the steering wheel back and forth in order
to get this lined up. All right? Then we can tighten that down with that same
21-millimeter socket. So, after everything’s tightened down, I would
recommend to torque everything down as well as getting alignment and then you’ll be all
set to go. So, that’s gonna wrap it up for my review
and install. Make sure you like and subscribe. And for more videos and products like this,
always keep it right here at extremeterrain.com.

7 comments on “Jeep Wrangler JL Rough Country 2.5 in. Spacer Suspension Lift Kit w/ N3 Shocks Review & Install

  1. Shop this Rough Country Spacer Lift Kit: https://terrain.jp/2oNDbG1

    Subscribe for Daily Jeep Videos: http://terrain.jp/SubscribeXTyt

  2. I get the reason for this kit, but if I’m pulling the springs out anyways, I would rather spend some more $$ and get a kit with springs and a few more features.
    Nice video and you always do such a great job on communicating what you are doing and how. The videography is very well done as well, such that you can actually what is being done. Nice job as usual Extreme Terrain team!!

    Oh yeah, how are the ladies hands manicured and perfect? The guys I know, me included, that do mechanic work, have these gnarled up old paws!!! Hahaha. I guess I have a lot to learn still.

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